ESMOD graduate fashion show 2010 Jakarta

Museum Nasional Jakarta

On my quest of hunting down the eco designers of Indonesia, I contacted Esmod Jakarta (esmod = a reputable group of fashion schools originating from Paris with schools all over the world). A few weeks later I receive an ethusiastic e-mail from a student, Anna Schmidt (coincidently a fellow half-German, her other half is Indonesian), happy to have found a fellow eco fashionista on the archipelago. We met for the first time last night, as she kindly secured me a ticket for her gratuate show, which I was very keen on seeing. What do the fashion designers of tomorrow in Indonesia have in store?

Modern Moslem

Anna Schmidt (front) and Angela Jessica Hadi (behind)

Angela Jessica Hadi

Pinky Andrea Purnama

Indo-Ethnic

Velika

Christina Geta Maria Pangaribuan

Superfuture

Soraya

Sherry Kandou

Priska Herlambang

Geek

Clarice

Rizqya

Tyas Pradninta

Warrior

Aan Ira Michelle

Zico Halim

Goth

Endriani

Yevi Yunita

They have a lot in store for the fashion world; I was particularly impressed by the high standard and large variety of styles and concepts. Unique is the influence of muslim and local culturemixed with influences from western culture which is getting more exposure and is more accessible in Asia through media and the internet. The comme-de-garcon meets Bernhard Wilhelm designs of Ryzqia stood out to me as being orginal and brave, using a short, pudgy model to accentuate the playfulness was clever and caused a reaction from the audience. The posted pics are just a selection my personal highlights the fantastic show, which took place in the national museum which I will visit tomorrow to learn more about this amazing country.

Congratuations to Anna who won two prizes that night: best women's wear and the Swarowski Crystalized award! Fantastic! Speaking to her later showed again how difficult it is here in Indonesia to source sustainable fabric, so that she compromised to use natural fibres for her collection rather than organic ones; hopefully in the future we can collaborate to make sourcing of sustainable materials easier. She expressed her concern about the lack of concern for environmental issues but believes once the trendsetters in Indonesia can be convinced of eco fashion, others will follow.

Thanks to Anna and her family for taking me under their wing for the night- very kind of the Schmidts! I am looking forward to see what up-and-coming eco-designer Anna Schmidt will get up to after graduating... we will see, maybe some Anglindo collabs...

Time to design a batik stamp

Today was a day out with Nana, who I mentioned in my previous post, supplier of organic cotton with natural dyes from Bali. She was kind enough to let me be her passenger for the day on her little blue motorbike and take me around town.

First stop was the batik workshop Hasan. They employ 25 people, been going for 40 years and is set pretty much outdoors in a quiet and green corner of Cikadung Bandung which is inviting. Friendly Yani who runs the shop and designs a lot of the new batik motifs introduced me to the different areas of the workshop where the wax painting (canting) or stamping (cap) of fabric is done; as well as the skilled gentleman who bends strips of copper to create these intricate stamps. Chemical dyes are used here as using natural ones would not pay off for them, Yani explained. On the upside, they do reuse the molten wax. Nana filled me in that I could use the wax batik facilities here and then send my garments to Yogya (central Java) or Bali to have them dyed. In this case I would have to weigh up carbon emissions to the impact of chemical dye stuffs.

Yani experiments with modern motifs too, many for children, like the cute boat motive below... which I wouldn't mind for a dress actually... I can't wait to design my own cap stamp!

Second stop was to a shop I would have never found or come across on my own and probably won't ever find again without my guide for the day, tucked away in some little side street a shop selling 'Kain Tenun'- traditional heavy cotton fabric, woven in central Java. I wasn't allowed to take photos in the shop, so I would describe this fabric as a heavy weave with a soft touch; the patterns are ikat i.e. created by dyed threads rather than the colour added afterwards as it were in prints and batik. This fabric is used mostly for interiors due to its weight but inspired me for totes, plimsolls and outerwear even as the textures and colours were something else!

Last stop was meeting Nana's friend who is an interior designer who works with recycled materials. One of his playful creations are tetris shelves to mix and match made of recycled wood. But my attention was caught by a little artwork made mostly of instant noodles, as it IS true (sadly) that MSG is a common ingredient; you can even buy big 5 kg bags in supermarkets of the chemical, branded "gourmet powder".

Back at the studio after this inspiring day, I am bursting with ideas for my new organic jersey collection already... ready, steady, sketch!

Behind the scenes... Anglindo photo shoot...

Scenery behind the warung where the first half of the photo shoot took place.

This week has been very exciting indeed. The collection was complete after months of hard work and the photo shoot followed. The theme was Tea Creatures with a dazed, summery feel, 2 girls chasing, dancing, teasing, dreaming in the plantations.

We left the city at 6AM for clear air and blue skies on our quest to find the perfect spot in the tea plantations of Ciater, about an hour away from Bandung. Theo and Amanda were to be my creatures for the day, Sapta was in charge of the click-flash-focus, and Anya and Iyey backcombed hair and powdered noses.

Sapta photographing the beautiful creatures.

Amanda with make-up artists Anya and Iyey.

The rolling hills covered in the thick-stumped short tee trees with the long wispy trees poking out, peppered on the plantation gave us a stunning backdrop . We stopped at a warung (kiosk) to have a strong sugary coffee or Bandrek (local all-healing-drink with ginger, cardamon, coconut shavings, brown sugar and magic spices) and voila!, out the back door we found our shooting venue. It all went pretty smoothly, despite bloodthirsty-mozzies and we even managed to get in the car and head home 10 mins before a tropical rainstorm crashed down on us.

Anja-Anglindo herself with the pretty ladies.

And most importantly, of course... the photos... well, see for yourself...

For all pics, have a peek on the website.

Studio Anglindo

Lovely people,

I would like to introduce you all to Studio Anglindo.

Studio Anglindo is a fashion label by

Anja Crabb. Anglindo is based in

Bandung, Indonesia and

offers uniquely

beautiful

clothing

which

is

made with

sustainability

in mind. That

means no sweatshops,

a zero waste policy and it

even has an organic cotton range.

To celebrate Anglindo's launch, we have a promotional offer

... to see what this offer is, check out the voucher below

and

please forward it to anybody who may be interested...

Please visit our website & online boutique :

www.studio-anglindo.com

Connecting People : Ethical Fashion Indonesia

Image courtesy of May Cortazzi

Because it's literally impossible to find any information on the internet on ethical fashion in Indonesia.

Because being here shows me that people living in the same city interested in the same thing need don't know of each others existence.

Because promoting ethical fashion will support ethical businesses and allow them to grow.

Because people are ignorant of the environmental and social impact of the garment industry.

Because THERE IS SO MUCH POTENTIAL.

Oh my, I am getting very emotional about this topic. From meeting new people I am talking to eco fashion about almost every month, it seems to have accelerated to every week ... if people are not already involved, I am getting a response of interest,of curiosity.

Together with May Cortazzi of Regenerate, with whom I have been brooding about these forums and groups since we met a couple of weeks ago, we have finally done it. May is a fantastically motivated and engaged designer and owner of an ethical casual-wear brand based in Nottingham. I met her when she was in Indonesia with other finalists of the UK young entrepreneurs award.

Here they are:

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on NING
Ethical Fashion Forum an International network of ethical designers.
http://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/group/ethicalfashionindonesia

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on Linkedin

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=106918886021994&ref=ts

and Yahoo group coming soon.

Just for an example: today I met with a supplier of natural dyed, organic cotton from Bali, they also have organic cotton jersey. How long have I been searching to find just that! Do they have a website? Nooooo. Does she have facebook? Well, of course, she has the facebook application on her blackberry! So, join the group, young lady and get some orders in. Fantastic.