Scrabbbooklet

OΔ+ - 'shoes that bloom' - interview with Owner

2012-02-24T13:30:00.000-08:00

For my most recent MA project of creating fully bio-degradable, highly desireable shoes, I interviewed Christiaan Maats, Founder and Owner of OΔ+ and found his appraoch and replies so inspiring that I decided to publish them here.

1. Please tell me more about how Oat Shoes came to life: what was the

initial idea behind it and how was the journey to becoming a real

product with a team of people?

I came up with the concept in 2008 during my graduation project for my Industrial Design master. I had researched ‘Storytelling through Product Design’ in Sydney, Australia and I wanted to tell my own story with a product. I developed the story of OAT Shoes to reunite people with the cycles of nature: in everything that ends lie the seeds of new beginnings. Whether those are flowers, a new product or even a new idea.

Sustainable shoes were sparse back then, often very ugly and based on recycling, making them cumbersome to get rid of: once you've worn out your shoes, you have to find a box and an address to send them to and then ship them off, without really knowing or seeing what happens to the shoes. To me it seemed too much trouble and too little fun. I thought: I want shoes that look good and I want to be able to just throw them out in the organic waste bin. Or better yet: I want to be able to bury them and have flowers grow out. Then they're really part of nature and you become part of nature's cycle.

We went through several design stages, learning to use the materials, exploring production methods, finding people who could make the shoe and believed in the concept, talking to experts in various fields. We've explored and learned so many things on so many levels, telling the whole story would take a book!

2. What motivated you to make a pair of sustainable shoes? And why did
you choose bio-degradability (as opposed to other sustainable values)?

I guess I'm impatient by nature. I had a clear vision of what I believed the future should look like and didn't see anyone doing it, so I decided to do it myself in stead of wait for it to happen. I chose biodegradability because it's the most intuitive way to link back to nature, and it's the easiest way to get rid of a product: you just chuck it out. Like I explained earlier: recycled products often need to be brought somewhere or sent off to some factory where you lose site of what happens to them. When you bury something you're in direct touch with nature and you get a great reward: new life. Aside from that: recycled soles are still toxic. Biodegradable ones are not.

3. Why specifically sneakers; what influenced your design?
Are you consdiering expanding your range to producing more
fashion-driven shoes? Or bags?

Sneakers are a personal preference: I love to wear them. I wanted to create shoes that everybody could and would want to wear and I think sneakers provide the biggest audience.

To introduce the concept of OAT Shoes, I wanted to offer a complete collection of sneakers based on classic models: a high-top, a chukka, a tennis classic and what became a casual weaver/boat shoe cross-over. The clear-cut, clean designs contrast geometric lines with the organic qualities of the materials, which give the sneakers their unique look and feel. I designed the Virgin Collection to be a presentation of the shoes in their purest, most basic form, using only white and natural hemp shades for the upper complemented by the colorful soles that symbolize the four elements. It is the point of departure for future creations, a blank canvas that invites people to wonder about other possibilities and future incarnations of the concept.

The new Autumn collection has a more minimalistic look and features deep-toned autumn colors. It's a more sophisticated style, so we are definitely evolving the style and looking at new possibilities. We've also developed a new bag: a leather shopper based on the classic plastic bag and we've got a bunch of products on the list to be developed.

4. What about finding fully bio-degradable materials and joining
techniques - how much of a challenge was it?

Very big: the biggest challenge was not using glue, because shoes are litterally stiff with glue. Also using the hemp canvas was a big challenge. Making a shoe purely by stitching it is very hard and it asks a lot of the seamstresses.

5. Can you talk about the technical aspects of materials and joining?
Or is it a secret? (If it is, don't you believe this knowledge is
better off shared to create a more sustainable world for everyone e.g.
Nike's Green xChange?)

It's no secret: we stitch. We do have some creative solutions up our sleeve which we don't reveal. While I do believe in sharing the knowledge, the difficulty with being a small brand is that when you do reveal all your techniques, it makes it easier for the big boys to push you out of the market. That's why we're a bit hesitant to tell absolutely everything. However, we are working to get it all out in the open in the future and get everyone who wants to involved in the development of new products. Aside from that we do offer advice to individual designers and starting entrepreneurs to get them going. (so if you need specific advice, let us know!)

6. What was the reaction of people when you were developing you shoes
(sceptical or interested?)?

Actually people almost always responded enthusiastically to the concept, be it with slight disbelief. Everybody understands the premise, although they do often have questions as to how we achieved it.

When we were developing the shoes, people from the industry always reacted with disbelief: 'it can't be done' was the general reaction. It feels quite good to prove them wrong!

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Dressed Integrity - An exhibition of creative fashion practitioners from the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås

2012-02-24T13:21:00.000-08:00

>>Dressed Integrity is the second project dealing with integrity that developed at the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås. With a varied focus on design methodology, identity, experiments of shape and material, processes, sketching and cutting, the exhibition will show both finished products and work in progress, which addresses the question of integrity. 6 PhD students in practical design research are participating with their own perspective of the theme Dressed Integrity. <<

(Text taken from Invitation)

I was also fortunate enough to be invited to the symposium at my college which was hugely inspiring; so inspiring that with the book I received in my hand I managed to get on the tube going to wrong direction and stay on it for 3 stops until I realized where I was (I must add that this has never happened to me in y entire life! I will write more about this soon and as soon as I get the copy of that book in my hands again and can write about it. Busy busy times with the MA (really loving the course though).

Event: Myths and Realities: Sustainable Lifestyles: Great Theory, Impossible Practice

2012-02-08T01:06:00.000-08:00

This was an event me and some of the MA Fashion Environment girls attended last night at the british libary. A bit exhausted now to write much in details about it but the jist of it was:

our unsustainable behaviour is formed by habits. These may seem deeply engrained but they do evolve and change. These changes may be radically influenced by technology but in sometimes unpredictable ways e.g. mobile phones & texting. Technology cannot be seen as the solution to solve our sustainability problems, that would be a 'mission impossible' as Ian Christie called it; social innovations however would make it a 'mission not quite impossible'. These innovations would include changing the framework and social structures which underpin our habits. Just trying to change individual habits is not effective with the current socio-technological infrastructures & cultural conventions.

I also found the different definitions of habit interesting (quite relevant to a 'shoe addiction' project we're working on with Prof. Helen Storey). Habits can be split into 'addicition' or 'routine'. The unsustainable consumption habit has been put into the 'addiction' bracket. Professor Dale Southerton stated that this is very unhelpful in addressing sustainability as it puts emphasis on the individual and views the habits as pathological. Whereas viewing the habit as a routine means the behaviour is the problem but is also the solution.

Cartoon as presented by Ian Christie & found again on this website

The Chair was Drs Astrid Wissenburg, Director of Partnerships and Communications, ESRC and the speakers Ian Christie, Research Fellow and Coordinator, Sustainable Lifestyles Research Group, Centre for Environmental Strategy, University of Surrey and Professor Dale Southerton, Director Sustainable Practices Research Group, University of Manchester.

Micro Modular Fashion

2012-02-07T02:19:00.000-08:00

This is my last term project: Micro Modular Fashion

Inspiring thinkers

2012-02-07T02:17:00.000-08:00

We are lucky enough to have some lectures with some great thinkers of sustainability and design. Kate Fletcher is a researcher at LCF and regularly has sessions with us. On the first one she asked us to read this article in preparation for it. It's on the state of the ecology today and really puts things into perspective. Her book is definitely my bible when it comes to sustainable fashion. Been reading loads around the topic and hope to post about some but the book club on ethical fashion forum for reviews!

Only yesterday we there was an inspiring talk (marathon) located at St. Martins and part of our Uni-wide green week. Jonathan Chapman was a keynote speaker; I soaked up his book emotionally durable design, so seeing him in flesh was quite something. Glad to be able to say that he's a good speaker. He recently did some consulting for Puma who seem to be addressing sustainability recently... might write a post later on what I think about quantifying and managing sustainability (read: not too keen on that idea). Carole Collet was also there, who I'd heard at the interweave event at the Victoria and Albert museum; she helped set up the MA textile futures at CSM and in researching into biological structures for textiles. Amazing really. Some other PhD students spoke & I was hugely inspired (kind of made me want to do one?! we'll see).

I recently discovered, pretty much by chance, openwear. It was after visiting this website that I made myself a pair of slippers for the chilly winter days. Have a browse and you'll see why. This initiative seems to be set up partly at least by Becky Earley, who was also at the talk and set up TEDs Ten. This is something that will really help me with my current essay actually and for which I will be interviewing Tim Parsons on Friday which I am excited about. Talking about essays... ciao for now

RCA MA WIP

2012-02-07T01:18:00.000-08:00

And now the Royal College of Art MA work in progress. (Chronologically the wrong way around, went to this one first). Some amazingly innovative creations.

Again, I seemed to be drawn to geometric shapes.

This is similar to what I did for a term 1 project! Love the use of the lace here.

CSM MA WIP

2012-02-07T01:03:00.000-08:00

Now some piccies from the Central Saint Martins Masters work in progress.

Sorry the quality's not amazing. And as I went to see them a little while ago, I don't actually have all the names/courses to go with them but if I wanted to look them up, they will be on the website soon I recon!

Us MA Fashion Environment girls noticed that quite a few parallels existed in the addressed topics: environmental degradation, social isolation, physical inactivity, ecological impacts of textiles, emotional durability, user engagement.

This is the new kings cross building. Really love it, so glad we can use the library & learning space there! Although I've heard it actually has less space for the students to work in, surprisingly.

MA Textile Futures

An altenative to fur: textiles created by brushing animals then sewing the hair onto a base fabric. Apparently she had a discussion with a girl on my course who is into second hand and recycling leather (they agreed to disagree).

Now if this isn't just my kind of thing!

A project to encourage physical activity in a time where we are so inactive in our offices, in front of computers.

Natural dyeing project. Her business cards were little droplets too.

Loving the tesselation & geomteric shapes together with the less structured, soft wool.

Textiles inspired by living skin cells. If skin can be bred in petri dishes why not create textile that way?! These skin bits were even edible.

Other MA's

Making eating ice-cream into a ritual.

(This reminded me of our Kolding project :) )

Ashquarium - the fish will suffer under your smoking habit.

Press the like button if you like it.

I liked the folded trays for business cards.

Calamondin Smiles

2012-02-07T00:47:00.000-08:00

Give us a smile!

MA exhibitions at RCA, LCF and CSM

2012-02-05T15:48:00.000-08:00

While we MA Fashion and Environment students have another year to go (well, 10 months, yikes!); it was great to see the Royal College of Art and Central St. Martin's work in progress exhibitions, as well as our own London College of Fashion's final MA exhibit. Very inspiring; and I am trying to imagine how it will feel being in their shoes not toooo long from now. Hence, first dose: LCF.

Location: Victoria House on Southampton Row; perfect space & size for the exhibit.

Renee Lacroix

MA Fashion & the environment

(the pic I took was terrible, so here's one from the MA website)

Modular & clothing that can be worn in different ways with salmon skin trim

Juliana Sanfelici

MA Fashion & the environment

Sustainable footwear; beautiful fashion pieces

Emily Towers

MA Fashion & the environment

A very carefully designed dress that can be adapted for different stages of your life

(and all dresses at various stages do look lovely)

Bernadette Ehl

MA Fashion Artefact

Am a bit obsessed with footwear at the mo as we're doing an exciting sustainable shoe project...

CHI YUEN (CHERRY)

MA Fashion Footwear

Adriana Iurascu

MA Fashion Footwear

Loving the tesselation detail. Something I did for my last term's project.

Laura Gostling

MA Fashion Footwear

Love the shape; could almost imagine Bjork wearing the ones on the left (maybe in a different colour though).

Ross Barber

MA Fashion Footwear

Chatted with Ross a bit, really nice guy! Orginial concept of evolving shoes, made in large part with the 3D printer.

Hoon Chung

MA Fashion Footwear

Orginal construction with just 2 screws holding the shoe in place.

... and many many more amazing MA students!

Final Outcome Designcamp Kolding

2011-11-08T07:34:00.001-08:00

DesignCamp 2011: On making the intangible tangible from Designskolen Kolding on Vimeo.

KOLDING DESIGN CAMP 2011

2011-10-09T12:57:00.000-07:00

Kolding School of Design

Just a week after starting my MA Fashion and the Environment at London College of Fashion I am told I was chosen to go a fully funded Design Camp in Denmark! Exciting! It's a 2 week long project between the renowned design school in Kolding, Denmark, and lots of top schools in the world. From LCF 2 other girls, Emma and Steph, are here and from the UK also 2 students from Kingston. Students are from different deisgn backgrounds, so we have furniture, fashion, managements, communication and many more fields working together.

Speaker Cecialia Katzoff on visualising electricity

One of many brainstorms

The theme this year is "Electricity - From the Intangible to the Tangible and from the Tangible to the Wonderful!". I am one week in, one to go. Last week consisted of brainstorming after brainstorming (heaps of post its). We also had experts hold lectures and talk to us. And by Friday we had the core idea which we are going to spend next week realizing. Our pitch sounds a little bit like this...

How may we take advantage of excess wind energy to create an emotional communal experience through the medium of light to increase awareness of electricity and its use.

Saturday some of us spent in Copenhagen, a beautiful and

a book i fell in love with in Copenhagen

2011-10-09T12:34:00.000-07:00

Amongst all the fashion books with styled, polished looks, I found this an original source of inspiration.

Clean Batik Initiative in the press

2011-09-14T04:52:00.000-07:00

http://www.guardian.co.uk/society/2011/aug/23/indonesia-batik-makers-sustainable-methods

I am very glad to be reporting about the CBI again, as now they have come as far making it into the British Press! When I spoke to them, just over a year ago in Jakarta, they were only in their launching phase. This has spurred me on to get in touch with them to find out more, as the article is held quite general.

In Indonesia batik has regained popularity in the last couple of years and there is a lot of "fake" i.e. printed batik on polyester fabrics imported from China. In my Anglindo project I was experimenting with using less conventional patterns and motifs but the traditional wax method. Ideally I would be doing this the new, cleaner way.

It would be interested to know where this batik can be sourced from, if they take special orders and if there is any kind of guarantee for following certain guidelines.

taped

2011-04-27T08:28:00.000-07:00

by Buff Diss

by Anna Garforth

... I like.

the girl effect

2011-04-27T06:18:00.000-07:00

Simplified but great graphics and yes, you do get the picture. Spotted on http://www.believe-blog.com

details - melting tags

2011-03-28T12:08:00.000-07:00

These clothes tags were created to reduce the volume of waste - tags made if soap instead of paper, so when you send you new item of clothing throught he wash, your tag will be dissolved with it. Clever clever. Well, quite clever anyway! Different websites suggest however that this idea is only halfbaked as mention of its carbon footprint or whether the soap is made of environmentally friendly materials is lacking. Ah yes, it's never that that simple is it. However, my opinion lies somewere between that of the blind enthusiasts and the supercritical: I think it is important to consider all the details around clothing manufacture to be addressed in innovative ways, but don't forget to question. Hopefully people's knowledge and curiosity will help distiguish between ideas with true potential and ones created for a gimmic to jump onto the green bandwagon.

... Speaking of innovations. How amazing is this biomimetic concept taken from snakes shedding their skins to fabrics shedding layers to reduce their laundering impact. Check out the vid on her website or the London College of Fashion website I found this on.

Double-Break

2011-01-19T02:29:00.000-08:00

During an inspiring break in Thailand and Laos, a fibula was broken (not mine, but being a nurse is time-consuming). This prolonged the planned break and my return to this blog will commence as soon as I have something break-unrelated and somehthing scrabbooklet-relevant to blog about (and there are exciting little things in the pipeline!).

In the meanwhile, a slow internet connection is testing my patience on the hill-tops of Bandung. Tomorrow I shall return to some productive hours at the studio however. What has succeeded in loading is my google search for Vivienne Westwood launching an ethical fashion project, which I heard about on a friend's blog.

(Image: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/resources/images/money/travel/air-security-2-08/overview/suitcase.jpg&imgrefurl)

Also, I came accros this brilliant graphic (bikes gobbling up an SUV) while browsing (ommmm, the page will load, rub them earlobes). I agree that designers are pushed to think out the box these days to convey environmental messages and the developments are exciting to be part of.

(Image: http://www.treehugger.com/files/2011/01/bicycles-eat-suv.php)

Love from Anja Anglindo
(who will be in Indonesia just for another 3.5 weeks)

P.S. Just glimpsed on treehugger.com that organic cotton production has increased 15% in 2010 which is fabulous news!

... This post started off with the intention of writing one sentence but I realize how much I have missed the blogging; I do enjoy it. Might be superbusy with my last few weeks here as well as moving back to half way across to globe again but shall blog again before toooo long.

books

2010-11-07T22:50:00.000-08:00

In preparation for my MA application I am reading like crazy. Being in Indonesia doesn't make it an easy feat, as there is no decent library around where I can get the books I need. I have 3 books here that I have completely absorbed and frequently use for reference : Y. Chouinards "Let My People Go Surfing", K. Fletchers "Sustainable Fashion" and D. Goleman's "Ecological Intelligence".

I do praise my internet connection, and when that is down due to tropical storms, Wifi in cafe's are quite reliable. I intend to add a list of my fave websites soon, upon completing my papers and would now like to share where I am buying my Christmas books from (can't wait for more inspiring literature!!):

http://www.betterworldbooks.com/

They sell second hand books, (similar to Amazon marketplace, however Amazon doesn't like shipping to Indonesia) so this saves them from ending up in landfills, PLUS they donate a percentage to the world literacy fund. scientia potentia est ... Reading brings knowledge and knowledge is power.

Rachel Carson's "Silent Spring" (1962) and "Crade2Cradle" by McDonough and Braugart will be my next purchases on the website, inspired by this article http://www.greenatworkmag.com/gwsubaccess/02mayjun/eco.html.

Merapi - "the firey one"

2010-11-07T01:07:00.000-07:00

Merapi, the most active out the 20 active volcanoes on Java has been erupting for a couple of weeks now with the last violent explosion on Thursday. Surono, chief of Indonesia's Volcano Mitigation and Geological Disaster Agency, told the Australian newspaper Friday."The eruptions haven't stopped, the tremors are getting stronger, and one big explosion could be the result."

Indonesia is in fact the seismically most active country in the world with 17,500 islands sitting along the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Anglindo's 2nd season collection will be donating a percentage of our profits to the Merapi Relief Fund. We are based on the same island as Merapi, in Bandung which is some 400kms away.

Photographs courtesy of the national geographic.

I need a new dress... sooo....

2010-10-06T05:20:00.000-07:00

... I make one. Not from scratch this time, but from a shirt a friend of mine gave me (cheers, Bry!). In tune with my principle of trying to consume less in all areas of life to tread more lightly on this earth, I have indeed not been clothes shopping in ages and ages. Conveniently for me, my friend has decided to bide one of his cotton work shirts farewell, as he has been working out lately and now many of his clothes are to big for him; he's really tall as well, so it's perfect dress-material for little me.

There are endless of ways of customizing shirts; they are one of the most satisfactory thinks to alter, as usually dress fabrics are nice. If you want to make one yourself, this is how I did mine:

1. detached sleeves and collar, cut a strip from the sleeves to sew together with collar to create belt

2. cut deeper neckline, front and back. make cord channel with strip from sleeve. insert cord, tack at back to fix rouching

3. detached and re-attached pocket to lower position

4. detached cuffs, reseamed them, buttoned to sleeves as detachable epaulets

5. finish armholes

6. take in side seam under the arm holes and finish side seam

7. attach belt at side seams; rouch at back waist for regular gathering

Transformation completed!

... or almost... I still have a little bit of material left from the sleeves. Now, I am against waste of any sort. So either I will use this to lengthen the hem a bit (more suitable to moslem Indoland) or make rosettes for decoration. Ideas?

I am starting to customize another (short sleeve) shirt in a sunny yellow, as the other one looks lovely. First thing is changing the neckline, although I'm liking the sleeves so far (you can't see if properly on the pic but they are gathered on the top and left to drape underneath.

Tarum means Indigo; visiting a natural dyes workshop

2010-10-01T00:20:00.000-07:00

Near Ubud, Bali, by driving along windey roads through little kampungs (villages) towards the coast, Tarum natural dyes have their workshop. Mr. Iwan, the owner, was kind enough to show me around their lovely (really, it was, and mostly open air) workshop, explain the different dyestuffs and techniques they use and show me samples of work the have done previously.

Mr. Iwan Triadi and Mr. Made Arsana, the owners first started experimenting with natural dyes in 1998, predicting growth of the area in the next 6 years. The prediction has been fulfilled and a steady but "organic" growth of the business has taken place.

Tarum uses leaves instead of roots, bark and wood as the tree can keep on living and regrown the leaves which is a sustainable harvesting method. The dying method is inspired by traditional pre-chemical dyeing. Most of the natural blues, reds, blacks, purples, and browns on traditional Indonesian textiles come from two vegetable dyes: indigo blue, from the shrubs Indigofera tinctoria and suffruticosa, and morinda red, from Morinda trees. Mango is used for yellow and orange. The plants are locally (in their back yard or in Singaraja, north Coast Bali) grown except for the Secang which comes from West Java because it is not sufficiently available in Bali.

Leaves for dyeing grown in the back yard

Harvesting Leaves to be boiled down to the dye stuff

Indigo leaf

Colours

Tarum also have a spinning and weaving facility; a wonderfully airy, spacious, light room. I mentioned to Pak Iwan that this is a much nicer working environment compared to the stuffy garment manufacturing factories I have seen in Indonesia; Pak Iwan however laughed and said one of their companies biggest challenges is in fact to recruit workers as the young people would rather work in mobile phone shops, can you believe it!

Weaving studio

Hand loom

Being dying professionals, Tarum are constantly expanding their repertoire on dying methods and have some in stock which are looking very interesting to Studio Anglindo...

The story of stuff- where it comes from and where it goes

2010-08-22T07:48:00.000-07:00

Fishing for plastic

2010-08-19T23:15:00.000-07:00

My close friend Caro Sparrow in Manchester has referred me to her friend who has approached a uni fashion project in a unique and appealing manner using new technologies.

This inspires me to go plastic fishing in the highly polluted rivers of Bandung and make beautiful trash couture out of my catch. In this country disposing of waste in rivers is common and acceptable; it gets washed away and out of sight (some of it does anyway). That plastic is non-biodegradable is not common knowledge at all. And when you think the smoke from the side walk is form incense, it's actually probably someone burning rubbish (including plastic and rubber); the other common way of disposal.

From ecouterre article:

"Sculpted from recycled and reappropriated plastics, including shower curtains, Bowler’s “Fusion” collection marries the poles-apart aesthetic of the traditional Japanese straw coat and the classic British macintosh. The Royal College of Artgraduate’s process is completely stitch-free, a combination of industrial techniques such as heat-forming and ultrasonic welding. (The latter method involves high-frequency ultrasonic acoustic vibrations to bind materials together.)

At the core of Fusion’s high-tech engineering is Bowler’s belief that recycled products can be luxurious, innovative, and desirable. “Fusion is designed to make plastic fantastic for longer,” she says. “[And] to create a garment that the owner will be reluctant to throw away.”

Bowler believes that recycled products can be luxurious, innovative, and desirable.

In keeping with Bowler’s mantra of reduce and reuse, even the rubber molds she had made are designed to be used again. The result is a series of space-age slickers in burnished metallic hues like gold, bronze, and titanium.
Fusion will be on display at the Royal College of Art’s Upper Gulbenkian Gallery, as part ofLondon Design Week, from September 23 to October 7.

Press

2010-08-19T22:46:00.000-07:00

Slightly belated entry due having to entertain some guests- my boyfriend's family came to visit us here in Indonesia and we went to Bali/Lombok&Gili Islands for a week! Internet-abstinence did me good but there's a backlog now I am still catching up on almost a week later.

Sunset at Gili Meno, Lombok
paradise desert island

It was also during this week off that Anja Anglindo was featured in the national Indonesian newspaper "Kompas". The journalist interviewed me at the STDI ethical fashion event. The article is a well-rounded piece (apart from not mentioning STDI which isn't quite fair) including a definition of ethical fashion (I had given him a translation in Indonesian). So I hope it has raised some awareness in a country where the knowledge of the environmental and social impact of fashion is practically non-existent.
A big *Makasih* goes to Phae form Parental Advisory for his enthusiasm and translating my presentation; it was so challenging doing it in bahasa (my language skills seemed to decrease with increasing exhaustion)!

Anglindo in Kompas newspaper

Here's the article although it's a really bad shot of me, ugh! Was seriously tempted to pixelate my visage. Will add some more pics as soon as I find my camera cable, promise. Have some inspiring detail shots and some pics form my visit to Threads of Life in Bali.

Batik workshop at STDI : Hand-batik ("canting")
It's much more difficult than it looks!

Shops are back online :)

2010-08-19T21:46:00.000-07:00

Visit Anglindo online boutique:

www.studioanglindo.bigcartel.com

Hold your horses! ... online shop issues...

2010-08-04T04:24:00.000-07:00

Unfortunately due to living in SE-Asia and my bank account being in Europe, there have been some compliations which have lead to my online shops being FROZEN! Until I an defrost them, please just send me your orders via e-mail and the money can be transferred via bank transfer for now.

Other than that, I am very excited to be going to Bali on Saturday where I will be visiting producters of organic&naturally dyed cotton. Did I already mention, I'm VERY excited...! Anja Anglindo will be posting about this...

Also excting: presentation about ethical fashion at STDI Bandung... probably the first one ever here!

New colours for Anglindo Flowflow necklace & Paudrey dress

2010-07-28T23:28:00.000-07:00

As these are the most popular Anglindo items to date and the good news is that means more colour options have been added!

A custom order for resulted in the red/black/grey flowflow necklace whereby the red rose is made from salmon leather which is not only a sustainable skin but is a left-over from an (eco) leather clothing designer in Iceland. I like enjoy working with different textures and with this new combo you have the scaly leather complemented by the smooth grey silk and matte black cotton rose.

The reversible Paudrey batik is by far the best-seller of this Summer. Maybe it's due to the fact that you can wear is as a boldly printed fun dress on picnics and then slip into the toilets once the the sun has set to turn it inside out for the post-garden cocktail party in town. Or maybe it's the unique back detail or the rather cute knotted necklace bit. In any case, as stated on the website the batiks are limited stock prints; the original one is already long gone but I have found 4 more stunning batik motifs that suit this dress.

Ethical Fashion presentation at Sekolah Tinggi Desain Indonesia in Bandung presented by Ompei Parental Advisory; Maizir Firebolt and Anja Anglindo. Pop by!

2010-07-25T21:23:00.000-07:00

popomomo = post-post-modern-movement

2010-07-20T05:26:00.000-07:00

"POPOMOMO stands for post-postmodern movement. Instead of floating in relative perspectives and endlessly reworking the past, Popomomo focuses on the new and true; creating idea — as opposed to trend — based pieces."

A label I came across not while researching eco labels but I just loved their concept and they just happen to follow a sustainable philosophy as well. In love.

It's nice somehow that their ethics aren't used as a marketing strategy but just part of the packet. It would be even nicer to think that one day the reality would be that every company has a code of ethics they make public and adhere to work sustainably. In Europe we might be getting closer to that utopic idea, as evironmental awareness has been present for the last 30 years... but in developing countries like Indonesia the reality is somewhat different. The behaviour of the people has not changed much; however technology, the materials and technology have... suddenly and rapidly. Only 20 years ago most food was served on banana leaves that you could throw into the rivers. Now with the very large presence of plastic, it is still commonly asumed that when plastic bags are thrown into rivers, they are taken care of (some magical rivers huh). In fact it takes 500 years for them to decompose. (Keyword: plastic beach. Also the title of the new Gorillaz album addressing environmental issues. Imho, no where as strong musically than the first album but lyrics to make you think).

While I am preparing for a presentation I am giving at a design school about ethical fashion, I am also wondering just how much of this information will be processed when the basic background knowledge or even interest in our environment and the attached issues...The truth shall be revealed at question time.

2010-07-16T05:13:00.000-07:00

Weirdly wonderful.

What we do not know, DOES harm us.

2010-07-16T03:40:00.000-07:00

Fffound image here.

We don’t know where many of our purchases, for example our clothes come from. Maybe the label on your new t-shirt claims it’s eco-friendly because it’s made of organic cotton. Do you know why organic cotton is better for the environment? It isn’t what one could call friendly to the environment, being the most water-consuming crop (less when it’s organic though) it is just friendlier, a step in the right direction. But have you thought about how far it’s travelled before it landed in your (plastic?) bag? Was the cotton harvested by a 10-year-old in Uzbekistan? Then sent to China to get knitted into jersey to then sewn in Bangladesh in a sweatshop where people don’t earn enough to live off? … But then, how can we even worry about it if we don’t know? We should know (if it’s anything that is worth marketing and selling, don’t worry, we’ll definitely be informed in that case). Transparency is a key point at Patagonia, a California-based outdoor brand; I am impressed at the effort and thought put into the traceability of their garments online and their HONESTY.

Sorry about that rant, it just kind of burst out of me! The little wheels in my head haven’t stopped turning since starting Daniel Goleman’s “Ecological Intelligence- How knowing the hidden impacts of what we buy can change everything”. Admittedly a read that also makes me feel helpless, as I DO want to make the perfect garment that is both beautiful and also doesn’t hurt the planet or the people that make it and I WANT to live that way too but it feels like a feat impossible to accomplish one-hundred percent. So I’ll read on, get inspired, learn and do my very best. And then keep on improving.

Many of us in Europe are quite aware of green-washing and are starting to question the impact of our purchases, even or especially the ones labelled as “green”… However, many Indonesians aren’t even aware of environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, any industry at all in fact or why they shouldn't use lots of plastic bags. Therefore, Anglindo has made it their mission to raise awareness in Indonesia. This is a nation of over 234 million people (4th largest population in the world after China, U.S. and India). Therefore, I have been researching general facts on ethical fashion (Kate Fletcher's "Sustainable Fashion & Textiles is being a huge help but I am frustrated to find some contradictory facts on the www) in preparation for a talk at Sekolah Tinggi Desain Indonesia (a design school in Bandung) on that topic. A talk I am doing with 2 out of the only 3 other eco fashion designers in Bandung* for educators and students alike with the aim of getting some wheels turning also in their heads...

I shall be documenting some of my findings on this blog. My mum read watched the vid on organic cotton and told be how shocked she was; she had no idea, in fact she thought by buying a natural fibre such as cotton, she was doing the environment a favour. A common misconception and to be honest what I thought when starting my collection until I started researching and opened that tin of worms...

* Maizir from Firebolt stocks a range of organic cotton tees with prints to raise environmental awareness. I bought some organic jersey cut-offs from him actually, to be used in the Anglindo Winter collection; they are knitted here in Bandung

And with Phae from Parental Advisory. He owns a 'distro' (independent streetwear shop) selling punk-inspired kid's clothing (well cute!) with a skate ramp in the back yard for his intiative called "Adikaka' for low-income kids, providing them with toys, skating&printing workshops to encourage them to finish their school education (amazing, will do another seperate post on that!).

National Museum Jakarta

2010-07-14T06:02:00.000-07:00

The national museum (or Museum Gajah) in Jakarta I visited after the fashion show is definitely worth a visit to catch up on background information of the many cultures inhabiting Indonesia or for an overview of the many ethnicites on these islands. The spacious but dark museum houses a large variety of artifacts with explanations in English (if quite vague but not so badly translated to distort the meaning which cannot be taken for granted). I appreciated being able to examine the of the different cultures of Indonesia under one roof, looking at different techniques and materials and mentalities and comparing them to one another. After my first Indonesian fashion show, it made me think about from which backgrounds these students came from and which aspect of their unique culture influenced them in their designs.

What made me giggle to myself as well as shake my head in doubt was the photograph of a native Sulawesi lady with her bare breasts that had been censored. That photograph, I noticed afterwards, is the only one of a bare-breasted woman, although the traditional costume on many islands only covers the lower part of the body for both female and male; exhibiting these photographs has obviously been avoided although they are only documenting historical facts. History is being censored or avoided due t the ‘pornography legislation’, I assume. Also the grounds upon which a famous local singer of a boy band here has been send to jail for making private sex videos; him and his partner in crime have been banned from Bandung, the city where I live. A screaming reminder of living in a country with a different culture than my own; a reminder also of not taking the rights in Europe for granted. I also wonder if that photograph would have been censored in Sumatra or Bali.

Aaaaanywaaayy, back to the positive aspects of living in Indonesia, which DO outweigh the bad, by a ton of human teeth on a necklace.

Wood fibre cloth “serat kayu” was worn in many areas before cotton was imported. I was ignorant to the significance of this fibre, as the current batik trend seems to flooding textiles over all other traditional textiles. Below some piccies and also one of an ikat weaving device.

And please, ladies and gentlemen, would you take not of these hats! It made me want to get into the art of millinery! Is that an idea light bulb on that red hat?

By the way that woven pig one IS a hat, but only special occasions of course. And the last picture shows adornment to be worn in your ear lobe.

And just for good luck, as it is this object's task....

Anglindo custom order

2010-07-11T21:08:00.000-07:00

Some beautiful piccies sent from Josephine in Germany who has ordered a custom Anglindo Pins dress. She needed the dress is a different colour to white to wear to a wedding and I think this pale turquoise looks just lovely on her!

Why Anglindo's next collection will be using 100% ORGANIC cotton...

2010-07-06T23:28:00.001-07:00

Europe buys 1/3 of Uzbek cotton.

Cotton - environmental disaster & lethal pesticides from Environmental Justice Foundation on Vimeo.

Cotton - child labour & human rights abuses from Environmental Justice Foundation on Vimeo.

p.s. why should INDONESIAN designers care about the effect of cotton far far away in UZBEKISTAN??

... Indonesia does not grow cotton. that means all the tons and TONS of cotton jerseys and wovens knitted and woven in factories in Bandung are from imported cotton. mostly unorganic cotton from Uzbekistan for example but also form India... loaded with pesticides.

It causes illness and even death for their farmers and their (our!) eco-system. By buying organic cotton you are supporting a heathly and enviromentally friendly fibre. If you are looking for suppliers please join the Indonesian Ethical Fashion Forum on Facebook, LinkedIn, Yahoo or NING (ethical fashion forum).

:)

ESMOD graduate fashion show 2010 Jakarta

2010-06-24T19:52:00.000-07:00

Museum Nasional Jakarta

On my quest of hunting down the eco designers of Indonesia, I contacted Esmod Jakarta (esmod = a reputable group of fashion schools originating from Paris with schools all over the world). A few weeks later I receive an ethusiastic e-mail from a student, Anna Schmidt (coincidently a fellow half-German, her other half is Indonesian), happy to have found a fellow eco fashionista on the archipelago. We met for the first time last night, as she kindly secured me a ticket for her gratuate show, which I was very keen on seeing. What do the fashion designers of tomorrow in Indonesia have in store?

Modern Moslem

Anna Schmidt (front) and Angela Jessica Hadi (behind)

Angela Jessica Hadi

Pinky Andrea Purnama

Indo-Ethnic

Velika

Christina Geta Maria Pangaribuan

Superfuture

Soraya

Sherry Kandou

Priska Herlambang

Geek

Clarice

Rizqya

Tyas Pradninta

Warrior

Aan Ira Michelle

Zico Halim

Goth

Endriani

Yevi Yunita

They have a lot in store for the fashion world; I was particularly impressed by the high standard and large variety of styles and concepts. Unique is the influence of muslim and local culturemixed with influences from western culture which is getting more exposure and is more accessible in Asia through media and the internet. The comme-de-garcon meets Bernhard Wilhelm designs of Ryzqia stood out to me as being orginal and brave, using a short, pudgy model to accentuate the playfulness was clever and caused a reaction from the audience. The posted pics are just a selection my personal highlights the fantastic show, which took place in the national museum which I will visit tomorrow to learn more about this amazing country.

Congratuations to Anna who won two prizes that night: best women's wear and the Swarowski Crystalized award! Fantastic! Speaking to her later showed again how difficult it is here in Indonesia to source sustainable fabric, so that she compromised to use natural fibres for her collection rather than organic ones; hopefully in the future we can collaborate to make sourcing of sustainable materials easier. She expressed her concern about the lack of concern for environmental issues but believes once the trendsetters in Indonesia can be convinced of eco fashion, others will follow.

Thanks to Anna and her family for taking me under their wing for the night- very kind of the Schmidts! I am looking forward to see what up-and-coming eco-designer Anna Schmidt will get up to after graduating... we will see, maybe some Anglindo collabs...

Time to design a batik stamp

2010-06-22T01:51:00.000-07:00

Today was a day out with Nana, who I mentioned in my previous post, supplier of organic cotton with natural dyes from Bali. She was kind enough to let me be her passenger for the day on her little blue motorbike and take me around town.

First stop was the batik workshop Hasan. They employ 25 people, been going for 40 years and is set pretty much outdoors in a quiet and green corner of Cikadung Bandung which is inviting. Friendly Yani who runs the shop and designs a lot of the new batik motifs introduced me to the different areas of the workshop where the wax painting (canting) or stamping (cap) of fabric is done; as well as the skilled gentleman who bends strips of copper to create these intricate stamps. Chemical dyes are used here as using natural ones would not pay off for them, Yani explained. On the upside, they do reuse the molten wax. Nana filled me in that I could use the wax batik facilities here and then send my garments to Yogya (central Java) or Bali to have them dyed. In this case I would have to weigh up carbon emissions to the impact of chemical dye stuffs.

Yani experiments with modern motifs too, many for children, like the cute boat motive below... which I wouldn't mind for a dress actually... I can't wait to design my own cap stamp!

Second stop was to a shop I would have never found or come across on my own and probably won't ever find again without my guide for the day, tucked away in some little side street a shop selling 'Kain Tenun'- traditional heavy cotton fabric, woven in central Java. I wasn't allowed to take photos in the shop, so I would describe this fabric as a heavy weave with a soft touch; the patterns are ikat i.e. created by dyed threads rather than the colour added afterwards as it were in prints and batik. This fabric is used mostly for interiors due to its weight but inspired me for totes, plimsolls and outerwear even as the textures and colours were something else!

Last stop was meeting Nana's friend who is an interior designer who works with recycled materials. One of his playful creations are tetris shelves to mix and match made of recycled wood. But my attention was caught by a little artwork made mostly of instant noodles, as it IS true (sadly) that MSG is a common ingredient; you can even buy big 5 kg bags in supermarkets of the chemical, branded "gourmet powder".

Back at the studio after this inspiring day, I am bursting with ideas for my new organic jersey collection already... ready, steady, sketch!

Behind the scenes... Anglindo photo shoot...

2010-06-15T22:28:00.001-07:00

Scenery behind the warung where the first half of the photo shoot took place.

This week has been very exciting indeed. The collection was complete after months of hard work and the photo shoot followed. The theme was Tea Creatures with a dazed, summery feel, 2 girls chasing, dancing, teasing, dreaming in the plantations.

We left the city at 6AM for clear air and blue skies on our quest to find the perfect spot in the tea plantations of Ciater, about an hour away from Bandung. Theo and Amanda were to be my creatures for the day, Sapta was in charge of the click-flash-focus, and Anya and Iyey backcombed hair and powdered noses.

Sapta photographing the beautiful creatures.

Amanda with make-up artists Anya and Iyey.

The rolling hills covered in the thick-stumped short tee trees with the long wispy trees poking out, peppered on the plantation gave us a stunning backdrop . We stopped at a warung (kiosk) to have a strong sugary coffee or Bandrek (local all-healing-drink with ginger, cardamon, coconut shavings, brown sugar and magic spices) and voila!, out the back door we found our shooting venue. It all went pretty smoothly, despite bloodthirsty-mozzies and we even managed to get in the car and head home 10 mins before a tropical rainstorm crashed down on us.

Anja-Anglindo herself with the pretty ladies.

And most importantly, of course... the photos... well, see for yourself...

For all pics, have a peek on the website.

Studio Anglindo

2010-06-14T02:01:00.000-07:00

Lovely people,

I would like to introduce you all to Studio Anglindo.

Studio Anglindo is a fashion label by

Anja Crabb. Anglindo is based in

Bandung, Indonesia and

offers uniquely

beautiful

clothing

which

made with

sustainability

in mind. That

means no sweatshops,

a zero waste policy and it

even has an organic cotton range.

To celebrate Anglindo's launch, we have a promotional offer

... to see what this offer is, check out the voucher below

and

please forward it to anybody who may be interested...

Please visit our website & online boutique :

www.studio-anglindo.com

Connecting People : Ethical Fashion Indonesia

2010-06-11T02:47:00.000-07:00

Image courtesy of May Cortazzi

Because it's literally impossible to find any information on the internet on ethical fashion in Indonesia.

Because being here shows me that people living in the same city interested in the same thing need don't know of each others existence.

Because promoting ethical fashion will support ethical businesses and allow them to grow.

Because people are ignorant of the environmental and social impact of the garment industry.

Because THERE IS SO MUCH POTENTIAL.

Oh my, I am getting very emotional about this topic. From meeting new people I am talking to eco fashion about almost every month, it seems to have accelerated to every week ... if people are not already involved, I am getting a response of interest,of curiosity.

Together with May Cortazzi of Regenerate, with whom I have been brooding about these forums and groups since we met a couple of weeks ago, we have finally done it. May is a fantastically motivated and engaged designer and owner of an ethical casual-wear brand based in Nottingham. I met her when she was in Indonesia with other finalists of the UK young entrepreneurs award.

Here they are:

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on NING
Ethical Fashion Forum an International network of ethical designers.
http://ethicalfashionforum.ning.com/group/ethicalfashionindonesia

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on Linkedin

Ethical Fashion Indonesia on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=106918886021994&ref=ts

and Yahoo group coming soon.

Just for an example: today I met with a supplier of natural dyed, organic cotton from Bali, they also have organic cotton jersey. How long have I been searching to find just that! Do they have a website? Nooooo. Does she have facebook? Well, of course, she has the facebook application on her blackberry! So, join the group, young lady and get some orders in. Fantastic.

back to batik

2010-05-04T01:38:00.000-07:00

... batik just won't let me go. The more I learn about it, the more thirsty for more knowledge I become. Especially when I read that in Tuban, East Java, they used home-grown, hand spun and handwoven cotton (other batik is on Indian cotton)! And the indigo is grown around the village. This method is still being used and I will HAVE to go there and check it out.

Batik is just one of the traditional fabrics of Indonesia, alongside Songket and Ikat but it is THE fabrics of the nation. It is the cloth with the most meaning and full of symbolisms. It tells you something about the maker as well as its wearer in colour, design, the way it's made and finally the way it's folded and worn.

Brides receive a precious batik sarong from her father on her wedding day, it may be custom made with with symbols signifying the new unity of the 2 families. These fabrics are handed down from generation to generation. The thought of documenting the special day in a piece of cloth which is completely unique and precious to be a family inheritance somehow speaks to my little heart. On my last trip I was fortunate enough to visit Kathmandu where I bought 3 traditional fabrics which is on the shelf between my new Garut batik that a kind group of local women gave me and my Swiss print cotton with teeny-tiny flowers. I have been collecting fabrics for as long as I remember; many bought on holiday and rarely even made into clothing as they seemed to precious with memories.

Some batiks are only for royalty (as still worn by the sultan in Yogyakarta); but everyone wore a casual batik cloth around their waist back in the day. And even nowadays batik print shirts and fashioned dresses are worn by young and old.

HOWEVER... of course with modern times, modern mass productions methods are implemented. Many "batiks" are not even made by the batik method of wax resist dyeing but by printing by machine and... and don't fall off your chair... are cheaply imported to Indonesia from China!!!

Well, I am going to stick to tradition; on real batik the pattern is visible clearly on both sides of the cloth and you can smell the natural wax. Lets go right back to where vegetable dyes were used. All the colours, all thees vibrant blues, reds and yellows were produced naturally 100 years ago. In a few weeks I shall be visiting a batik workshop to learn the skill of handmade batik myself, and more importantly visit Solo and Yogyokarta, the two royal courts of central java and capitals of batik to visit Studio Bixa where only home-grown vegetable dyes are used. My vision is to collaborate with these places and support this traditional way of producing this precious traditional cloth.

What will the fashion industry look like in 2025?

2010-05-03T00:46:00.000-07:00

An initiative by Forum for the Future, this is a call for a sustainable fashion industry. On this website you can find a heap of resources like the complete report including thoughts by fashion experts from all around the world. Be sure to check out the animations showing 4 scenarios!

Cleaning up Batik

2010-04-01T06:51:00.000-07:00

Since my last entry, so much has happened! Good things, lots of them, inspiring people and places.

Time to share 'em.

This entry is dedicated to the Clean Batik Initiative.

I read about it in the Jakarta Post article and immediately made contact with the organisation responsible for it : EKONID , the German-Indonesian Camber of Industry and Commerce, (ah, my fellow Germans!) and met them just a few days ago in Jakarta.

The popularity of batik has only grown since UNESCO added the technique to its World Heritage list. This has sparked the project after it became known that small to medium sized enterprises in batik produce the highest amount of CO2 among their sector (oh dear).

I discussed this initiative which is 'cleaning up' batik with the project officers, Anne Dih and Adnan Tripradipta. They explained how this programme that has only been launched at the beginning of this year is aiming for more efficient water&electricity consumption and waste management by providing free workshops (funded by the EU). This 4-year programme will face major challenges as a certain fear of change prevails despite the huge financial savings that can made and considering that the end-product will be the same as produced through the traditional, more environmentally-harming methods.

The lovely lady on the left is Anne Dih, whom I spoke to.

In conversation it became apparent that although producing more environmentally-friendly textiles is a growing trend, developing a certification for the cleaner batik and taking the next step of using sustainable fibres such as organic cotton is something to be pursued at a much later date.

The second phase of this programme aims to "green" the demand side of batik through free marketing, promotion and consultation programmes. Being a member of the Ethical Fashion Forum made me realize how important and helpful it is for designers, suppliers and other players in the industry to have a platform to exchange and communicate. Maybe something along those lines can be introduced for Indonesia, as I myself would appreciate one myself right now! (Oh Indonesian organic textiles, where art thou? Somewhere for sure, ... will keep on looking.).

As an ambassador of ethical fashion, it was inspiring and interesting to exchange throughts with clean batik initiators in person; it is a h u g e step in the right direction. I am looking forward to getting involved somehow and will report back regarding this topic. Time to clean up!

Mister van Noten, can I interest you in clean batik, yes?

Inspiring (Batik)

2010-03-02T01:08:00.000-08:00

Last weekend I visited my childhood friend, Cici, who was my childminder's daughter. They lived in a small house attached to ours. We spent 7 years of our childhood together, making sand & flower cakes and running around the garden with the batik capes of our fairy costumes flying behind us.

In Indonesia, it is tradition for the young to look after the old. It sounds natural and ideal; in western society this tradition is long gone. Cici returned to Desa Hanja after living and a decent eduction in Bandung a few years after my family had returned to Germany. This was not questioned despite her potential for a career. First I felt disappointed for her, but then seeing 4 generations (Cici has a son called Vega Verdaus, what a name!) all living in the same house, healthy and happy looking, living in a picturesque hilly village with a community, changed my thoughts. Remember where you are. Here, family comes first, values are different than in Europe, it is not all about career&success.

What else I saw there were colours. Such vibrant colours!

Colour Lovers

2010-02-15T22:40:00.000-08:00

Quick one: I came across Colour Lovers on Mudpie's LinkedIn forum (another good resource for ppl in the fashion industry), as I too am a lover of colour however, I get indecisive. Naturally, with the endless possibilities the combinations and shades provide you with! Colour Lovers has just helped me out BIG time as I was stuck on my colours for the range I am working on. You can search for palettes by entering 3 hues for example and then a very very long list appears. Well structured website, too. Anyway, back to work, now that I've got my colours sorted :)

Grizzly bear

2010-02-07T19:16:00.000-08:00

Their popularity of this New York band has increased immensely since the release of their latest album 'Veckatimest' (2009). The music is slightly haunting despite being melodic and the videos visually strangely captivating .

2010-01-26T23:12:00.000-08:00

evening view from roof terrace

What an incredible and incredibly busy week last week was. In the best possible way. This the first week in our new little house in Bandung, during which we also adopted a little cat (called 'Jelek', ugly, by the previous owner as it was so ill and horrible looking, but very cute by now)... ... ... and 3 interesting events occurred in Bandung last week...

Institut Teknolologi Bandung (ITB), as the dean himself said to me, is 'the most prestigious university in Indonesia' and internationally acclaimed. But almost more important for myself was the beautifully spacious campus with many huge leafy trees and the eager but laid-back vibes it sent out. I had a meeting with staff from the Faculty of Arts and Crafts, did a little ppt about me, myself and I (skills, interests, experience etc etc) which was basically a job interview; apparently this informal and indirect approach is typical of the Asian way. Glad to have prepared well, I had some fruitful exchanges and I will be involved there in the new term in one way or another. To be continued and confirmed.

ITB main campus

Now this is interesting: while researching ITB, I came across jBatik, Fractal Batik, created by Pixel People Project. They have won several awards, including the ICT Asia Pacific award and the UNESCO award of excellence. I have already been researching batik quite a bit but had come across nothing this innovative or original. One of the lecturers who attended my presentation happened to be part of that project and he told me that there were mixed reactions to fractal batik, many people feared that traditional batik would be undermined and the skills lost, others find digitalisation a natural progression also in batik. I replied that I was surprised to have not found any more experimental, new approaches to traditional Indonesian fabrics. This is really thinking outside the box, incorporating modern technology and does not stand in competition to traditional Batik; if anything it makes it more appealing! Read about it here. Batik was nominated a UNESCO world heritage last year. Especially since then but in the last 5 years, batik has turned into a bit of a hype here; hence my surprise how conventional most of it still is and my joy upon discovering Fractal Batik.

So, what is it? "jBatik is an open source software, custom developed to design Batik Fractal. This Java based program can be found in website www.pxlpplproject.com for user can have first hand experience to generate graphics by writing fractal formula based on L-Systems. User can also copy the formula provided in Galleries, manipulating the formula, iterations or angles of the fractal to produce various results. End results can be saved in png format for further development." taken from their website, more info there.

And for your reference, traditional batik can look a little something like this (this is a humble selection, there are endlessly many styles and patterns):

Takk, love

2010-01-19T05:24:00.000-08:00

click here to play mix

This Breezeblock with Björk bootleg is something I just have to share. She is incredible and so are these tracks. No idea when it’s from btw but it don’t really matter I don’t recon. And this one isn’t even the epic one! That will be used for real emergencies or celebrations.

I received this among lots of gigs worth of mind blowing music from my boyfriend’s brother who a DJ in Zurich (‘Being Ed’). What’s better than receiving the whole digital backlog (no doubt his repertoire of vinyl well exceeds this) of a DJ who is on your music wavelength?! Anyway, while getting nervous preparing a presentation, this is getting me through.

First track is in fact my favourite Björk track (and ah, amazing live!) and at plusminus 1:35 she chooses a track played by Indonesian instruments, which is a nice coincidence as I am now living in Indonesia and at 1:47 one of my favourite ‘I am not a gun’ track is played. And all the stuff introduced in Björk’s voice/accent has got me through the day’s work. Björk lifesaver.

Ksubi eyewear

2009-11-13T08:23:00.000-08:00

ah meh zing.
and well good styling.

Wool, paints, plastic & the gang : T.A.A. Manchester

2009-11-11T07:06:00.000-08:00

The T.A.A. in Manchester was ...

Temporary; the building was a primary school which will be torn down in 2 weeks

Autonomous; strictly speaking it was a squat and well, yeah it was a squat

Arts; in the widest sense going from painting walls to poetry, unicycling, pagans and knitting with plastic-bag-yarn (plarn) for the junk fashion show

Although this was on during my work hours and I could not spend every day all day there; cycling through estates in typical Mancatraz cold drizzle rain after a tiring day was worth seeing how a bunch of creative, enthusiastic people can turn an unused building into whatever they want. In this case there was hardly an inch of wall space without paint, poster or any other colourful material. There was poetry reciting, independent film showings, a junk fashion show (that I missed, boo!) and a big Cabarave to end it with a spectacular bang.

I contributed in Obermaier's Junk fashion and crafts corner, doing origami (erm with a little/lot help from my friends) until being infected by the "but I want to make that .... and that! .... and everything!" - virus... knitting, jewelry making, sock monkey making, and upcyling in every form took place. All materials were donated and all participants volunteers. What felt good was creating things that was the opposite of what virgin products do and did it feel good to be making fashion in that otherwise consumerist and profit driven world.

And was it inspirational. ... to be less conventional in work and life. Knit some plastic! Paint on the walls! I'm no punk or painter but it's strangely liberating.

Forbidden Arts Manchester

2009-11-05T01:42:00.000-08:00

>> Inspired by London collective ‘Random Artists’, over the past few years collective groups in Bristol, Manchester, Edinburgh and Brighton have been coming together to create a cultural, interactive, autonomous space where people are free to be, free to create, and free to express themselves.

We want to exhibit all forms of artwork: drawings, paintings, sculptures big and small, photography, installations, designs and more. Showcasing poets and vocalists, films and performance, words and concepts.

Born out of the free party underground movement, these spaces of reclaimed freedom have been making a significant contribution to an alternative art world and Manchester Forbidden Arts are bringing it back to Manchester this NOVEMBER: 4th – 7th 2009!<<

Call 07762 599453 for directions ... it's a pretty awesome space, a school that will be torn down in a few weeks time and easy to get to.

I went there yesterday as I am part of the junk crafts corner; I was appointed to do origami. Janine had seen me make my trademark sail boat and assumed I was a pro... but that is the only one I can do! None the less, I printed out diagrams, collected paper and have already attracted another origami semi-pro at the event who will be my co-origamist. Should be wild.

If you're in Manchester - come, it's well worth popping by and having knit, fold, paint on the wall (so liberating!) or learn to unicycle! Or in the evenings...

THU 5th: Independent film night
FRI 6th: Junk Fashion Show / Interactive Dance & Performance
SAT 7th: Cabaret

Go to the forbidden arts website or T.A.A.R.T. for more info. Photos will follow, will be exciting to witness how the space will grow and develop.

sew do you

2009-10-21T02:26:00.000-07:00

I found someone amazing: ...verypurpleperson! I am a purple person making stuff myself and we share the Indo connection: she's an Indonesian living in Tokyo who "just can't stop making stuffs". Came across her on burdastyle.com where a batik dress of hers was featured. Very inspiring, desipte my personal taste being less cutesy. The styling with the bright tights brings out the blue in the fabric and the minty contrast colour shows attention to detail on the second dress. The other printed fabrics she uses, allover tonal cats for example are amazing and Japanese of course. Very personal style, sleek and tastefully presented. She has a shop and blog.

Yuken Teruya

2009-10-20T05:55:00.000-07:00

http://www.yukenteruyastudio.com/en/projects

Melissa's plastic dreams

2009-10-14T05:34:00.000-07:00

A link to share...

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/fashion+environment/ethical-living

where I also discovered that the supercool rubber shoes that I adore by Melissa work with a zero waste policy, recycling all their waste from production! I own a pair of Melissa ballerinas myself; they smell of hubba bubba.

Josh Keyes

2009-09-30T03:23:00.000-07:00

Distinctive style and hits the spot, doesn't it just?

Artist's website here.

Walking Cats in London

2009-09-22T07:22:00.000-07:00

sass & bide

Totally my bag. Their stuff isn't always but often is and this time for sure. That last dress could be my wedding dress. Ethnic inspirations translated into geometric shapes in drapey silhouettes.

richard nicholl

Fringing and reinterpretation of Hawaiian floral&triabal patterns. Geometrics. Got my love.

pringle

Definately not any old boyfriend cardigan. It's intricate and it's pretty. And it even looks warm&comfy.

mark fast

Textures&shapes remind me of the sea side. A pretty sexy sea side though.

louise goldin

Miss Goldin makin golden clothin. Almost creamy golden tribal pattern on pastells, dreamy.

julien macdonald

Crocheted layered cobwebs. Works.

eley kishimoto

Wearable colorful pattern combos.

Lonond Fashion Week, Spring/Summer '10. Completely ignoring reviews and what might be attached to the big names; here are a few personal faves. Also realized this is the first actual proper fashiony entry. Woohoo.

Bloggin' celebs

2009-09-22T03:42:00.000-07:00

... i.e. bloggers who are famous in the blogosphere.

There are different universes within it; my pluto-sized planet of blog rotates around the sun that tends to shines out visual/graphic/photographic/fashion/textile/travel/designy/ making stuff kind of stuff.

Some people write more specialized and regularly which may capture interest and gain popularity. I don't know much about increasing traffic etc. Anyway, one of the first things I did this morning was have a quick glance on the guardian website, as I do on quiet midweek mornings and BOOM the most viewed article on this website in the last 24 hours is about a 13-year-old fashion blogger, yup that's her below with nobody less than Yohji Yamamoto.

Tavi with Yohji Yamamoto. Photograph: Jemal Countess/ Getty Images for Y-3 from guardian.co.uk

Seriously. Now popping up all over the 'fashun' world, it's insane. TBH she is insanely good, yes, very dedicated and waaaay beyond her age. But I am instantly worried that she will be hooked on coke by the time she is 14 like Drew Barrymore (only she was 12) partying in fashiony NY. And she looks innocent and fragile like a little elf. Click here for the Tavi's blog. Aw. And awe.

These images above are from an "old" blog fave of mine who mysteriously stopped posting last year without any warning, explanation or good-bye. The blog still exists here. She did recently get a pet pig (arrr) and also married, so maybe a change in lifestyle has occurred but I was so sad that a googled it and saw other people discussing the disappearance of Agathe. And nobody knows. Her blog is personal, stylish but relaxed and I do love her Scandinavian way of combining vintage designer/customised thrift store worn with H&M. Check out those shades?! Oh mama.

And then there's a non-blogging 'Yakooo' with noticable internet presence; as her press folder on her flickr profile containing 20 images reflect. The most recent, and so far most important, feature was on the MTV website. I came across her featuring on etsy; her chain necklace grabbed my attention, which isn't surprising; it's farking amazing. So different. May attempt one at my knitting circle, may just etsy-buy one.

Not too long ago I also got an e-mail from the MFN (Manchester Fashion Network) inviting me to an evening to discuss "the power of the blog". It was in London, so I couldn't go. But yes, the power of the blog. And the power of internet in fashion in general, I guess. The power? Yeah maybe, the possibilities interest me more, I'm not that into power.

i like you sew much!

2009-09-17T08:15:00.001-07:00

The idea of a sewn love letter is metaphorically clever as you want to make those words last as long as possible and fabric is longer lasting than paper. Well, you do have the unpicker in case of mistake or heartbreak.

I also like the sound of the needle piercing paper making a the irreversible hole (even if it makes a needle blunt, oops). I have experimented with the paper/thread/sewing/embroidery combo before, for example making a photo album and sewing in the photos while embroidering little bits around the photo. Cause don't you just find it annoying when the glue comes loose and they just fall out the album and in the worst case the photo gets lost? And the thread (&holes) adds lovely texture and colour.

Photo 1 from http://www.twigandthistle.com/blog/2009/05/sew-in-love/

Photo 2 from http://www.flickr.com/photos/laserbread/

2009-09-16T07:09:00.000-07:00

Leafcuttersdesign.com

Photographic embroidery increases number of inspo-cells

2009-09-08T08:01:00.000-07:00

http://www.riflemaker.org/s-maurizio_anzeri

Suffering under lack creativity lately which has been leading to symptoms such as non-blogging, these images have healed me and induced my return to the incredible land of inspiration. I like people, art, artists, objects that don't take themselves seriously, yet aren't just blatantly comical.

These photographs from almost a century ago have been embroidered in way that has made the object into a beautiful artful caricatures by having its features highlighted and exaggerated by colourful thread.

For the last few weeks I have been in the process of scanning in photos from albums I inherited from my grandparents, who were born in 1910/1911 so they are secured digitally and be shared with other members of the family. By scanning each single page, I get to look at the single photograph more closely and can even zoom in on details that I have not noticed the many times I had flicked through. Maurizio Anseri's work has inspired me to not only value these insights but reinterpret them with my own media... I can see some cut&paste work happening with some colour input and fabric application...

... jeez, ... art sure is a matter of interpretation. I showed my housemate these images and his instantanious reaction was that that the faces had been deformed and looked like they were diseased with growths etc. Nothing in that disection had crossed my mind at all! But then he is an illustrator who love to draw skulls if that says anything.

Schattenspiele

2009-07-17T01:12:00.000-07:00

Erin Mulvehill

Palazzo delle Esposizion at Venice Biennale

Textile deisgner Emmie Joseph

Reverse Graffiti Project

"... if obejcts were more useful, cheerful and altogether more friendly then that's miles better."

2009-07-10T01:51:00.000-07:00

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gallery/2009/jul/08/wood-exhibition-ethical-homeware?picture=349962094 found at http://brainfood.howies.co.uk

MONOLITH

2009-07-08T05:40:00.000-07:00

1) Collectors Elmgreen & Dragset at Venice Biennale '09

2) Still from film "2001 a Space Odyssey" by Stanley Kubrik

3) Pavel Pepperstein @ Venice Biennale '09

4) Still from film "The Fall" by Tarem Singh

A bike-bag-basket dilemma resolved and mental defragmentation begun

2009-07-02T02:56:00.000-07:00

First entry in ages- my mind saturated with practical thoughts, essential, daily issues, life stuffs,not leaving much time or brain cells for the free roaming, developing and multiplying of creative and fun ones.

It's looking up now! I am rehabilitating my ability to be open eyed and open minded... it took a few moments, not many, ...and ping! Aha, that's so clever! Ooh, how sweet! Aw, that makes me feel warm inside. Wow, cool. Hmm, if you took that and changed it like this... Off we go.

Here's one under the latter category - it's a nifty concept : baskets are bulky and uninspiring. IMHO essential improvements would actually make it *incredibly* nifty. The downside to this little accessory unfortunately ain't waterproof, and what if it had a strap so you could carry it as a handbag? And a little pocket facing the rider for keys/phone/tidbits would be handy. Time for me to have a go at some bike accessory making maybe.

That's better, Anja. Motivation, ideas, go go go cause it's fun!

From http://alexandracassaniti.com/.

New blog colours are a must for a new thinking phase. Still work in progess, for sure, as usual.

Cornerhouse: State Legacy, China & Encounters at the End of the World

2009-05-08T01:15:00.000-07:00

Screenshot from http://www.cornerhouse.org

Unfortunately I missed the exhibition in the Whitworth gallery that I had blogged about, due to nice weather EVERY weekend since intending to go- just can't waste sunny days in England! Despite the soaked-up rays and the resulted happiness through them, I felt a definite void in the culture department. This was completely spontaneously filled when my boyfriend surprised me and picked me up from work, as he was in the area.

Photos from http://www.cornerhouse.org/art/

We decided to go to the Cornerhouse, even if it was just to grab a post-work beer and ended up in the exhibition "State Legacy" presenting previously unseen works by five prominent contemporary Chinese artists. Although my knowledge about China and its history is nearly nil, the radiance of Zeng Li's photographs were so strong it evoked a deep feeling of discomfort as well as admiration for the artist's talent in photographic composition. His series of photographs entitled The Shuicheng Iron and Steel Works, detailing an abandoned factory that had remained hidden amongst mountains during the cold-war. I could feel the harshness and mercilessness of the derelict looking vast whole landscapes of factories, which were badly cared for, treated as badly as the workers within them; I could feel the dirty toxic fumes enter every capillary of my lung which made me shiver.

The other one that stood out for me personally (and wasn't as discomforting) was Sui Jianguo’s Raising Speed on the Railway, a multi-screened projection of a high-speed train as it travels around a circular testing track. We only noticed this clever train element as were were about to leave the exhibition, thinking merely street scenes were being shown.

Illustration by Thomas Plaskitt from http://www.newthink.co.uk/

Throughout the exhibition we were thinking about a friend who left last week to live in China for a year. We were imagining the lanky, blond, tall Tom who had never even been outside Europe, looking onto a sea of little black heads beneath him -like in the image above drawn by Tom himself? I felt nervous for him. He will be in a "small" town near Beijing, still with a population of 6 million, teaching English. He's a graphic designer who has been working for a almost year since graduating and is also a graphic novel/comic artist. I am intrigued what inspiration this experience will provide him with but also anxious how he will cope (with the isolation of an expat, especially in China).

Afterwards, we watched Werner Herzog's "Encounters at the End of the World" which was released in 2007, as the Cornerhouse does not only show new films. Check out the trailer above! The colours and imagery is inspirational and gave me goosebumps all over. Uniquely beautiful nature and person shots, and a Herzog's commentary adds a dry element of humour. According to one of the interviewed people, these individuals are there because none of the are tied down on this planet, so the all fall down, fall to the most south part of the world- nice thought.

Also, do you know what sounds seals make under water?? They do not sound like they come from any animal in this world, more like synthesizers or lasers!

Top of the Crop (so far)

2009-05-07T03:17:00.000-07:00

My fellow blogger (Brighton Fresh) and former colleague Jon is doing some market research in form of "getting inside people's wardrobes", investigating into their favourite & most worn items of clothing. This resulted into me sitting in an ocean of favourite clothes, proving that I don't have "nothing to wear". It also clarified some personal fashion tendencies which is quite interesting as a part of the life-long quest of self-finding.

The Dresses

(I wear them a lot, no stressing about combining)

This perfect Summer dress (H&M), as mentioned in my previous post.

And now to be replaced by this one made by myself.

By 'People Tree', my Christmas dress. I like peacocks.

Vintage dress from NY (according to the label) and customised by myself.

Topshop. Don't own very much Topshop actually. This one looks fit for Summer with a b/w graphic-pattern skirt over the top and with a purple waist belt, matched with canary yellow wedges. Oh yeah, THE outfit for Sonar festival this year.

The Jean, Short and Skirt.

Acid wash Hooch very skinny jeans. Got them for free from work, were a sample.

Mango chino candy PINK shorts. So good and more versitile than you'd think.

The skirt made by me out of not even scrap fabric but those strips of samples you receive from fabric suppliers. Ugly on their own but work well mixed together.

The Coat.

Marc Jacobs. Usually completely unaffordable, it was a lucky find in a closing down shop in Nuremberg.

I appreciate the attention to detail in the sweet printed lining.

Don't have a fave summer jacket... yet!

The Tees.

Insight tee from Indonesia. A donkey wearing ray bans and a bow tie? Can it get any better? Oh yes it can- check out the allover print on the back!

Cheap Monday sale tee. Only had it in medium but loved the print (see below), so customised it with darts around the middle and on the sleeves.

What a print! Seriously.

Admittedly I copied this from a very stylish male friend. Ordered off durkl.com. I like purple and I like unicorns.

And the shoesies.

Office tan leather Granny booties worn a LOT, urban outfitters jelly pumps and purple glitter buckle conversy type sneakers from... coughcough... Primark... they get smelly but I had initially only bought them for a fancy dress ninties party (with high-waisted Diesel bleached&ripped denim hotpants, awful tie-dye leggings and a shoulder-padded red blazer, topped off with body-glitter everywhere) and ended wearing em loads! Might buy the leather version from Topshop or even Kurt Geiger (if the trend hasn't already passed).

Summary.

"Man wird alt wie 'ne Kuh und lernt immernoch dazu!" (- a German saying, badly translated as: you get as old as a cow and still learn more.)... as in I learned something about my own taste:

My graphic tees seem to incorporate animals (jewelry, too, I have a bird, emu and unicorn necklace), my dresses are printed with graphic patterns and seem to like quite a range of colour, not many of which are dark.

Some of the bits are customised/made by me and bound to be faves as they are made exactly how I want them to be. I like a bit of quirky detailing and cut.

A most worn cardigan, although not featured as it's in the wash and it looks ratty with holes and ladders, is a quite thin knitted anthracite slightly longer merino cardi - another H&M purchase I am sad to see die, and a pair of H&M simple skinny indigo jeans which are holding out well actually. I also should have added in stripey Jack Sparrow Cheap Monday skinnies, no clue where they are they're amazing.

Now I'm curious and want to peek into other people's wardobes! Hope Jon publishes something soon! :)

Summersmocking

2009-05-06T14:28:00.000-07:00

So the life of your favourite Summer dress is slowly coming to an end. Almost definitely. This one is comfy, you can even shamelessly sit in the lotus position, it's cute, goes with lots I own, is layerable (with tights&cardi it didn't even get a well deserved winter holiday); sometimes I'll even wear it as a kind of dressing gown, first thing to throw on in the morning and mooch around all day in on a Sunday.
... Herein may lie the root of this tragic death: the poor thing is from H&M. Only worn 2 Summers it has outlived its expected life span for a garment from this chain. SO, instead of lament and wail through the nights, I will seek hope in the depth of my soul...

.... and sew myself a new one!

Yup that turquoise one there is the one. Then at least I'd have someone to complain to if it fell apart anytime sooner or later. Easy peasy, really. I googled smocked dress, chose a printed cotton fabric and in it took about as long as running around town, inspecting all dresses, trying them on and never finding the one I had imagined in my perfect summer dress fantasies or if I did it would be too pricey or not available in my size.

This is how:

1. The chosen one is a printed simple, light cotton fabric I got from a clear-out of the fabric team at work. Make sure it's not too light i.e. transparent, unless that is an effect you actually want. Mine happens to already be just the width I need, therefore no fabric at all is wasted, one cut for the length, that's all! Just keep some spare for straps. Then I hem top and bottom.

2. Wind the elastic bobbin thread. Now, I read that it has to be done by hand, but it depends on your elastic. It works fine (not amazing) with my first one, a thicker type, until that one runs out. My new, unfortunately different thread type suddenly it doesn't work. I try mechanically winding it, as I would non-elastic thread, and it works! Even better actually, the shirring turns out tighter and more regular! Test it beforehand on scrap fabric, check the tension and how much it shirrs.

3. Draw lines on the fabric along which you will do your shirring-sewing with chalk (pencil) or special marker that will disappear later (better option) on the right of the fabric, as your elastic bobbin is on the other side (obviously).

4. Shirr away! Drrrr, drrr, drrr, clickclick, snip and tie a knot at the end so it doesn't come undone.

5. Now, there are different ways of proceeding at this stage depending on the needed width and desired style, but I am keeping it simple for the first born one and sew the selvages together which creates a single seam along the centre back and also means no edge finishing is necessary.

6. This can already be a finished strapless dress! I'm having mine with straps however for added practicality, no risk of flashing the general public by accident. I cut one strip ironed it and sewed it.

As I want to be flexible and have an excuse to use buttons I decide on the strap solution shown above which also means they are detachable (aha, tricky me) and I can get a tan-line free tan if I want to and flash the general public when feeling cheeky! (Never really get that urge though.) I chose azure blue glass buttons from the wonderful Mauerpark Sunday flea market in Berlin I had visited last Summer.

I sew on a little side pocket as pockets are almost as good as buttons, but I take it off again as I preferred the simplicity. Also, when wearing I found my especially chosen fabric is a bit stiff due to the all-over print but hopefully that will give with lots of wear&washing.

Something I might try next time is the strap solution below (found a while ago on urban outfitters website) but moreover the shirred panel which means the dress will fit more than strictly one size and through the elastication an opening like a zip (always fiddly to insert) unnecessary.

C'est tout!

“It is better to light one small candle than to curse the darkness.” (Confucius)

2009-04-23T06:57:00.000-07:00

Danke, Mutsch.

Edun comet tee at adili.com

Vintage travel case ...but modern

2009-04-22T05:23:00.000-07:00

These cherry, mustard, sand or chocolate coloured soft leather travel cases from the 1950/60/70s are so very much more elegant looking compared to their plastic predecessors which do not look nicer the more worn they are. However the old-fashioned cases are also less practical than the hi tech rolling models or the back-pack option. That is, unless you are creative and add some dee-eye-why to that cool retro case with some shoulder straps!

Found this crafty solution on my friend's blog, who is based in Australia; his comment was: "saw this guy on the train today. he was traveling light in style!check out his home made suitcase / backpack solution.". Ditto, Rob, ditto. http://robert-stuffilike.blogspot.com/

Have a beautiful dark yellow-y one myself actually, one of several small vintage treasures I have recently inherited but which are still in Germany... to be retrieved and shown here as soon as I have collected them.

Long lost friends found in the blogosphere

2009-04-17T08:23:00.001-07:00

Well... not that long and not very lost either... but it's been a while. I am referring specifically to some talented young designers I met during my placement at Puma 2 years ago who's blogs I found ---

--- one of which got me particularly excited... the lovely Nadia had gone to the same uni as me and came from the same village as my ex-boyfriend. She was on placement 1 year before myself at Puma and initially returned there to work after graduation. She then took the brave leap into freelancing to start her own label Nadinoo! And am I impressed by the stuff...?!?! Beautifully dreamy, as sweet as a cupcake, uniquely cute and very wearable indeed. She only just launched her online store last Wednesday and all the pieces are carefully hand sewn by her little self.

Yesyes, those images there are Nadinoo designs- flowers and frills, bows and bells which you can look at here: http://nadinoo.blogspot.com/ and purchase here: http://nadinoo.bigcartel.com/.

Nice umbrella too :)

Pun-tastic Postcards

2009-04-16T08:59:00.000-07:00

http://www.creativereview.co.uk/crblog/harvey-nichols-pun-tastic-postcards/ for more pun fun!

Subversive Spaces at the Whitworth Art Gallery Manchester

2009-04-15T06:20:00.000-07:00

The subversive spaces exhibition at Manchester's Whitworth gallery looks at the relationship between surrealism and contemporary art. It includes work from Sarah Lucas, Douglas Gordon and Gregor Schneider, alongside pieces by surrealist past masters such as Paul Delvaux, Brassaï, Dalí and Magritte. Subversive Spaces runs until 4 May 2009 so I will hurry over before I miss it and as soon as I have a free rainy weekend; I find surrealism fascinating.

Photograph above: Kinderzimmer (2009) by Gregor Schneider; Photograph: Joel Chester Fildes , from http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/gallery/2009/mar/25/subversive-spaces-whitworth-gallery-in-pictures?picture=345030227

Japanese fabrics... cutesyheaven

2009-04-14T07:27:00.000-07:00

Admittedly I came across this on http://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/. I must express my love for etsy a second time. An etsy shop bursting with printed Japanese fabrics, also selling buttons and other trims?! ARGHA hmmmMM...!!! Tiny little prints and a million polka dots to choose from!!!The fabric&button fanatic has spoken.

http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5172818

My first etsy love were those wolf earrings I had blogged on here a couple of weeks ago (sent with the sweetest hand written thank-you note and wrapped in pink tissue paper and even a free little pair of earrings made internet shopping quite the opposite of impersonal&cold).

Clean graffiti

2009-04-09T04:25:00.000-07:00

So I was flicking through http://www.nylonmag.com/ and came across their blog featuring Ellis G fire tagging. He is most known for outlining shadows with chalk in the streets of NYC.

This reminded me of another kind of unconventional street art. After some knitting with the droppin' stitches group, my fellow knitter Janine and I were strolling down the streets of the Northern Quarter which features some street art (but most of it actually on NQ cafe/bar walls) and came to talk about reverse graffiti. It is created by *removing* dirt from a surface and therefore not only actually defacing objects and legal! Big corporations have already used this method for advertising, cleverclever, there is even a company specialized in exactly this http://www.dirtystreetadvertising.com/.

Apparently the 'Keep Britain Tidy' group oppose reverse graffiti. Practising artists such as Moose aka Paul Curtis have been charged but no one has ever been able to make a case against him; he says, "No one owns the dirt." I also prefer viewing it as alternative street art that removes dirt and leaves nothing but a piece of green, clean art.

http://www.reversegraffitiproject.com/

Ode to the bike.

2009-04-08T05:58:00.000-07:00

Oh I love my bike. Lovelovelove it. Amen.

(I can't help it - I'm going to have to look like an obsessive Howies fan but the tee above was at the Howies sample sale - the rosary is a bike chain. It's admittedly isn't quite my style bag but I am definitely a bike believer.)

My first attempt at a bicycle purchase was during my final year at uni with the main aspect being: cheapcheapcheap. A collapsible cute mini and brand new bike off ebay: only 50 quid! Biddingbiddingbought. Sent in a big box all the way from China. Had a sticker on the handle bar "no two person ride". Aha. And even with just one person ride it very quickly fell apart on its few outings. It had back wheel suspension that made you bounce vigorously when pedaling, pretty hilarious to watch! Got looked down on at the bike doctors "that'll last 2 weeks!". Oh. And then it got stolen when I ..errr... left it unlocked. What a shame.

My mancbike nr 2: ebay again. This time a Hercules Balmoral 1974. 50 quid again. Picked it up from a Manchester suburb, love at first sight. Undisguisedly Rusty and headturningly squeaky, but rides beautifully like it could go on for another 35 years. And according to the bike doc who seems to like me now ("ah the balmoral!") this may be a realistic lifespan estimate. Yesterday on my ride home I passed some scallies who looked my beloved 2-wheeler and commented somewhat surprised "that's an OLD bike!".

Cycling opens up a whole new Manchester! The wind in my face and exercise wakes me up on my 13-17 minute cycle to work which takes at least twice as long on bus&foot. It took me a little while to get used to being a vulnerable cyclist amidst careless seemingly cars but I'm not even scared of roundabouts anymore (always helmet-wearing nevertheless).

Bikes are ace,

Manchester is flat,

Bikes are life improvers.

Amen.

And these should exist in every city : “Die Radgeber (’bike provider,’ a wordplay on the German word for advisor - ‘Ratgeber’) is a bicycle repair shop in Leipzig, Germany (home sweet home) where the customers repair their own bikes. Germans know their bikes.

(http://www.good.is/post/project-007-radgeber-repair/)

Closer to my own home now : praise to the 'I bike MCR' group! I'm not a member but am planning to take part in the next critical mass which consists of a monthly tsunami wave of cyclists flooding Manchester streets. Next one is on 24/04/2009, starting 18:00 at the central library. Show your love, spread the love.

(http://www.ibikemcr.org.uk/)

Bike trends in Mancatraz (by own observation) show vintage ladies bikes in muted colours (1950s), complete with wicker basket and bell - Dawes have recently brought out a new vintage inspired very lady-like bicycle and an international fashion magazine (Streetwear Today, May09 issue)featured http://www.abici.org/ (photo below). Men's vintage bikes tend to be more brightly coloured (80's) racers. And minimalistic and lightweight fixed gear bikes (fixies) are gaining popularity these days.

Last note: donate bikes to help people in Africa - transport aids development!

http://www.re-cycle.org/

When ideas are running faster than fingers can type...

2009-04-02T08:22:00.000-07:00

... I end up with an overload of stuff I want to post but no time to, as I want to go enjoy the sunshine before the big hot ball of fire disappears again. It doesn't help that my computer crashed yesterday while typing up a long homage to umbrellas.

So, number 1 : http://www.wejetset.com/ which I came across when googling opening times for the Magma shop in Manchester where I'm planning to buy some artfartfashion mags the read in the sun. It looks one of the many designer's shopping heaven. Well, for the designers with similar taste buds to mine anyway (Jack: know it?) Never mind the cringe worthy shop name. They also generally look like they take themselves too a bit too seriously, brrr. Found some wantful wonderfully ueberpractical and very designed things. The mac book hardcover is one (I should probably be more gentle with mine in any case, case or no case), another is a pitter patter umbrella (as shown above and opened to the right).

And then ... I keep coming across them... the desire to own one grows stronger every time..

Beautiful?

Being the perfect opposite of the accurate digital photos, sometimes even photoshopped afterwards (which I thoroughly enjoy myself) , the result of lomophotography is charmingly unforeseeable. The hues that can be achieved are unique and stunning. Unfortunately I actually know nothing about these cameras, will research & ask around before purchasing.

http://shop.lomography.com/shop/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/lomography/

Oh yes, numero dos: howies sample sale in Manchester starts today and is on till Sunday! Woohoo! I was going to resort to ebay (jeans? risky business.) but this is superduper news!

http://brainfood.howies.co.uk/2009/03/manchester-sample-sale-3/

Ciao for now!

Raindogs

2009-04-01T02:55:00.001-07:00

... is the name of one of amazing Tom Waits' albums (if you like the sound of a gravelly bourbon drenched voices backed with experimental instrumentals, get in). Manchester raindogs living in the rainiest city of the UK make brollies an essential part of life. They are a most underrated accessory. My boyfriend has a beige one of those duck umbrellas.

And in the opposite case, when the sun is frying your brain like last year at Benicassim music festival on the south coast of Spain, a Japanese-style parasol saved my health and my look when passing out on the beach after a long night and then strolling from beach to cafe to beach again. This year I shall do the same but will spray it (as it surprisingly survived last years festival) with waterproof & colourful paint. Just in käse Manchester-y weather should occur.

So, you have actually managed not to leave yous beloved rain shield on a bus/in a cafe/whoknowswhere but then -alas!- an unexpected sudden change of air pressures around you forces air to turn into a forceful wind, in and under you brolly and turn it inside out! You fumble it back, one of the corners has come loose, it's looking very sad and so are you. This happened to an exquisite stable-looking ones of my own (indigo polka dotted, dome shaped, black leather handle). As well as one hand painted by my lovely German friends as a leaving pressie. And a superfavecolourpurple-coloured one.

Simple solution if the metal bits aren't hopelessly bent:

For detailed instructions see http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1762

And well, if it's broken beyond repairability think of the showerproof fabric! Perfect material for a bag (bike messenger anyone?), shopping tote, a rain poncho or even a taffeta-look skirt (probably using more than one broken brolly). More ideas...??

Howies add on

2009-03-20T06:41:00.000-07:00

And this in their catalogue referring to their big carbon footprint on Merino they use but they are trying to improve.
(How many posts have I already made this week?! Guess this is what an office job does to me. )

Hand me down Howies

2009-03-20T02:18:00.000-07:00

This week made clear: it's spring! On Wednesday was spent in lotus position on a rooftop on a woolen blanket with tea lights in jam jars (long live jam jars!) and bottles of wine, kept warm in woollen Fjallraven/Barbour Katie K jumpers; it had been sunny, hazy and mild all day. Daffodils, cherry blossoms, cardigan weather. Mhhmmmmmmm...

On that rooftop, Katie came to talk about Howies clothing and how awesome they were. I didn't know them (gasp!) and looked 'em up the next day. Indeed, awesome the are. One unique concept is 'Hand-me-downs' http://hmd.howies.co.uk/ : "These products have been made to last. So that one day you can hand them down to someone else. And they can carry on their little journeys.". High quality, organic, classic garments&accessories made not only to last your whole lifetime but the one of the next person you hand it down to (with a 10 year guarantee). They achieve vintage status by actually being worn for tens of years as they will last that long, and not washed down and treated with chemicals for a vintage look that is fashionable and disposable. Same concept with their jeans all being raw selvedge denim. After flicking through their website, blog and brand history they come across as creative, chilled dudes I'd want to sit on rooftops or have bags&clothes-making sessions with.

... and art, too!

2009-03-17T09:14:00.000-07:00

http://www.chorltonartsfestival.com/

Friday 15 May - Saturday 23 May